Beko Service Repair Manuals, Schematic Diagrams

Typical Trouble-shooting Analysis, Electric Control disassembly, Examine & Repair of Cooling Troubleshoot, Circuit Diagram, 

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Technical Specifications, Service test program, Wiring schematics, Spare part list,

Fault algorithms, Demounting the dryer

Before you start running test mode, weigh the pros and cons. Maybe it’s not worth the risk, and you need to call an experienced technician to your home... Only a qualified specialist can accurately diagnose the machine and repair it.

The presented method of entering test mode is relevant for almost all models of Beko brand washing machines. You don’t have to disassemble the equipment, just work competently with the program selector.

The washing machine must be connected, the hatch door must be open. Make sure there is nothing in the tank.

Let’s set the switch to the upper position (it doesn’t matter what mode it will be on your model - “clap”, “90 degrees”, etc.). Now hold down the start/pause button and simultaneously press the “on” key.

We are in the service menu. Close the loading hatch door.

The LEDs on the control panel will begin to flash; if the washer has a display, it will begin to beep.

Press “start” twice – the tank will rotate in one direction and the other. This is a quick test of the drum rotation speed (the washing machine will go into spin mode).

Press “start” again - water will begin to flow into the dispenser compartments one by one, and then into the tank.

Press the button again and the drain will start.

At some stage a malfunction will appear, for example, the water will not drain completely. To get rid of excess water, simply restart the washer and run the drain in normal washing mode.

The washing machine does not turn on

In most cases, this malfunction is associated with a defect in the electronic controller (Fig. 3). Before replacing it, you must check the reliability of the contacts in connectors J6 and J12, as well as the presence of a constant voltage of 8 V on the corresponding contact of connector J6 (the marking is on the front side of the board). If everything is normal, check the functionality of DC/DC converter 1 and its elements. The converter's 5V output voltage can be measured across its electrolytic filter capacitors. The performance of quartz resonator 2 (4 MHz) is also checked. If faulty elements have not been identified, the controller must be replaced.

Note that the controller board itself is made of brittle material, so when it is deformed, cracks very often occur and, as a result, breaks in the printed conductors.